Tuesday, 8 February 2011

15th Century female fashion









Around 1450, the gown of northern Europe developed a low V-neck that showed a glimpse of the square-necked kirtle. The neckline could be filled in with a sheer linen partlet.

the low scoop-neck of the early decades gave way to a neckline that was high in front with a lower V-neck at the back at mid-century

The partlet, a sort of separate yoke to fill in a low neckline, appeared in this period, usually of sheer fabric (linen or possibly silk) with an open V-neckline.

Hair:

A variety of hats and headdresses were worn in Europe in this century.

The crespine of Northern Europe, originally a thick hairnet or snood, had evolved into a mesh of jeweler's work that confined the hair on the sides of the head by the end of the 14th century. Gradually the fullness at the sides of head was pulled up to the temples and became pointed, like horns (à corné).

By mid-century, the hair was pulled back from the forehead, and the crespine, now usually called a caul, sat on the back of the head. Very fashionable women shaved their foreheads and eyebrows.

Any of these styles could be topped by a padded roll, sometimes arranged in a heart-shape, or a veil, or both. Veils were supported by wire frames that exaggerated the shape and were variously draped from the back of the headdress or covered the forehead.

Women also wore the chaperon, a draped hat based on the hood and liripipe, and a variety of related draped and wrapped turbans.

The most extravagant headdress of Burgundian fashion is the hennin, a cone or truncated-cone shaped cap with a wire frame covered in fabric and topped by a veil. Later hennins feature a turned-back brim, or are worn over a hood with a turned-back brim.


Women of the merchant classes in Northern Europe wore modified versions of courtly hairtyles, with coifs or caps, veils, and wimples of crisp linen (often with visible creases from ironing and folding). A brief fashion added rows of gathered frills to the coif or veil; this style is sometimes known by the German name kruseler.

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